Friday, August 30, 2024

Arrival - Day one

For most of us Nepal is visa on demand. An Afghan friend had to get it in advance while a Pakistani friend on the same trip didn't need any visa. It's $25 for a 15 day visa. Because the government needs hard currency you'll need to pay in dollars/euros. 

Before leaving the airport you'll see a booth where you can prepay $7-8 for a taxi. Take it. You do not want your first experience bargaining for a taxi to save a dollar or two. Also, just before exiting there are two shops selling SIM cards. Although wifi is everywhere, I definitely recommend spending the $25 for a visit SIM. Data speeds/connection can vary depending on location in the mountainous country but it's usually quite good.

Where to stay?

Thamel is the touristy area and it is the right place to stay. Nicer hotels are located outside of Thamel but if you stay at one of those you will be taking a taxi or walking to Thamel so it just makes more sense to book in Thamel. They've made the heart of Thamel car-free so the taxi will drop you off and you'll have to take your bags the 3-4 blocks to whatever hotel you book.

Thamel is very walkable, even better without cars. Catering to tourists the "popular" restaurants serve Italian, Chinese, etc. I recommend a place that serves the staple food of Nepal: Dal bhat (curry with rice). 

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g293890-d13078170-Reviews-Thakali_Bhanchha_Ghar-Kathmandu_Kathmandu_Valley_Bagmati_Zone_Central_Region.html

Whatever hotel you book will likely offer breakfast. Skip that and go to Northfield cafe. Their Nepali omelet is amazing. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g293890-d1156591-Reviews-Northfield_Cafe-Kathmandu_Kathmandu_Valley_Bagmati_Zone_Central_Region.html

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Taxis are all negotiated price. Anywhere you are going within the city is $4 - $8. I don't think I've ever paid more than $8 and that was for going to Patan (neighboring city). 

Since I know you have the Lonely Planet I won't bore you with details of the temples; you can read it all from the guide. Here are a few tips:

Visit Pashupatinath (the Hindu temple) in the morning. Why? You can witness the funeral pyres. Family members ceremonially wash the body before cremating on the bank of the river. It is possible to watch this from a respectable distance on the other side of the river bank. On every trip I want punch tourists who have their cameras out taking pictures of the grieving families right next to them.

Both Buddhist temples mentioned in the guide are worth the visit. 

Boudhanath is close to Pashupatinath and logical to visit next. 

My favorite is Swayambunath. The taxi will try to drop you off at the base of the temple. Be sure to direct him to take you around to the top. It's more fun to walk down. This temple is loaded with monkeys. This is why I recommended bringing bags of peanuts. You will be very popular!

Cap off the day visiting the bar at the top of the World Trade Center. It has a nice view where you can enjoy some momos and beer. 

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The Durbar Square is the other major landmark recommended in the guide. Sadly much of this nearly thousand year old structure was destroyed in the 2015 earthquake. It's still worth a visit if you have time but not essential.

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The three major temples is very doable in the first full day in Kathmandu. That means the next day is going wherever you want to go next. 

For me the decision is between safari - washing/riding elephants in Chitwan - or Pohara where you can hike, paraglide, zip line and wake up to the most amazing view of the Himalayas. Since I've spoken with you I know you are considering Lukla. 

Lee is more adventurous than me; Lukla makes every list of Top 10 most dangerous airports. Although it's not my cup of tea I look forward to seeing his pics if he does. 

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